Congrats, Australia! Hope y’all have lots of fun!

Alone. I don’t currently have friends that play it, but I still have a good time. Works great on Deck, and you can even make use of HDR settings, if you have an OLED version.

It’s a good time for SNES spiritual successors!

Mostly CrossCode. A fun little sci-fi action puzzler that pays homage to the SNES era of games. It’s similar to Spirit of Mana. Low power requirements, and it has a Linux-native version that works better than the Windows version (you need updated engine files if you play from itch.io).

I’m also playing a little bit of No Man’s Sky, but just here and there; I’m mostly playing that on my desktop.

Not saying that will fix things, but you never know!

I didn’t see you mention it, but have you connected it to the dock then checked for updates? The official dock gets its own set.

There’s bumpers you can add to raise up the back paddles. I wonder if those might help.

Always, when a game tries to force me to use a stick-click to sprint or I need to perform an action with ABXY while turning via right stick/pad.

I think that’s a fair point, and also it’s cool that they want to try to be sensitive to a group that’s historically gotten the raw end of the deal much of the time.

It’s small progress, but better than business as usual.

They’re also working with the Shawnee and their chief, who is himself a huge Civilization fan, to ensure they portray Tecumseh and his people well.

https://apnews.com/article/civ7-shawnee-tecumseh-firaxis-civilization-32ca02931e9cdeb024a9a0abb7081d2a

You could, but there’s no official control scheme. My experience wasn’t great, but maybe yours will be better. I just think that since there’s so many buttons (multiple toolbars, multiple menus and build modes, etc.), it’s hard to make it all work.

Maybe I’ll try my hand at a new control scheme, but it just seems built for a M+Kb. It plays well, though, so the limitation really is only the controls.

Untitled Goose Game. Silly fun.

I tried Satisfactory, but the controls just aren’t (yet) made for a controller.

I think you mentioned that you were mapping gyro as right stick? Is there a reason you don’t use it as a mouse instead? The Steam version I think supports dual input, no?

I can give it a try at home, but I suspect there’s something else going on. When you use gyro, are you using it when you touch the right stick? Are you using it when you touch the right pad? How is it being activated?

Dev wouldn’t nuke your custom profile on purpose. There’s good reasons to implement a Steam Input API in their game, most notably because they can do certain things like automatic overlay switching, which further improves the experience for most people. Losing an older profile is sometimes an unintended side effect, and there’s nothing they can do about it.

And to be clear, an old config can look fine, but the internal structure may have changed with how the game/steam interprets it.

This most often happens to me where the devs create an official mapping later on that can do context-aware things in the game (i.e. using more than just Xinput).

It’s possible the config got changed as things updated. I have had that happen with old configs before.

You might need to rebuild your config or edit a similar one.

Ah! I actually meant to do that (saw that on another post), but the second to last Deck update broke Decky Loader’s injection sequence, so I forgot about it in the meantime.

ETA: the latest Deck update corrected that issue, and Decky works fine, now.

There’s still some crackling audio on resume from suspend, occasionally. Would love to see that bug ironed out completely.

It’s fine. I understand why you would be skeptical. I studied metalsmithing in college, so I’m pulling from my knowledge of working with raw copper and applying/avoiding patinas. It has been my experience that raw copper items that touch your skin will develop oxides eventually.

Modern copper pipes don’t have that problem, because they’re often covered with a protective coating from the factory to protect against oxidation (which is why you have to sand joints before soldering, as I’m sure you’re familiar), and people rarely handle them after installation.

These buttons could be just fine and never develop a problematic patina, but I wouldn’t personally take that risk, because ≈$500 replacement cost is high for me. Even the example image shows the characteristic blue oxides, though that could be from an intentionally-induced patina for advertising purposes.

They don’t. Take a look at pennies. The problem is that your fingers aren’t only covered in oil. There’s also sweat, dirt, dead skin, and bacteria.

The other issue is that even if that was true, you’re not touching the entirety of the button. The sides and the underside are just exposed to air, and with enough ambient moisture, expect oxidation to show up eventually.